Hostel Casa de Chihuahua close to Creel in the Copper Canyon

From Chihuahua to La Paz
Across the Copper Canyon

Owning a hostel in Chihuahua, we are surrounded by backpackers 24 hours a day... Meaning we are happy to take advantage of the low season (may - june), close down the hostel for 2 weeks and go backpacking ourself ! Yes !

Aim of the trip is to find out about Baja California, so we can advise better our future customers, but also meet other hostel owners to shake hands and share our experiences.

The trip from our hostel in Chihuahua to La Paz is in 6 steps :

1- Chihuahua to Creel by regional bus. Price : 190 pesos per adult
2- Creel to El Fuerte by train : Price : about 280 pesos per adult
3- El Fuerte to Los Mochis by regional bus : about 80 pesos per adult
4- Los Mochis to Topolobampo by local bus : about 30 pesos each
5- Topolobampo to Pichilingue by ferry : about 650 pesos each
6- Pichilingue to La Paz by local bus : about 20 pesos

Day 1 : off we go !

It is a bit strange to close the hostel, after having it open 24 hours for the last 365 days... But we must take advantage of the low season. So...

Bus to Creel
Most international tourists are surprised about the quality of mexican buses. Nothing to do with the greyhound of neighbours !

But the great value of these buses is inside... Here is your first chance to chat with locals.

while one can watch through the window a typical landscape Chihuahua's landscape

1 hour later, a quick first stop at Cuauhtemoc, city which exports apples all over Mexico, and also hosts the largest communauty of Menonites in Latin America : 20 000 blond with blue eyes people.

We managed to grab some gorditas at the halt.

Another hour later, we start to climb. The landscape differs, looks more alpine.

Of course, some always success to take advantage of the situation.

And finally, 4 hours after we left Chihuahua, we arrive in Creel, which is just about celebrating his 100-years birthday. We go straight for a good local lunch at Gaby's

Then a nice 1-mile walk to the top of Creel, where there are a few fresh caves.

The view from the cave is quite pretty, embracing the village

At the hostel where we stayed ( Casa Margarita), the dinner is included. Meaning all the customers are there, seating behind 2 large farm-like tables, exchanging tips about the next day and re-inventing the world.

We took a very decent 2 king size beds room, on the first floor. Clean, hot water, and very quiet. Obviously freshly renovated.

The next morning, we decided to visit our friend Norberto, who owns a small hostel / ranch with beautiful horses. We made a small 3 hours tour, which was enough for my wife and I, with no experience whatsoever with horses, while the kids really found it easy.

This is Norberto's ranch, from which we are renting the horses.

A big sculpture on the top of Norberto's house.

NOrberto preparing one of our horses.
As once can see, horses where in a great shape, and surprisingly enough, not a single fly around.

That we made it, we cannot imagine going to Creel without riding the horses for a few hours. It really changes the perspective, and Indians and local faces are very different when they talk to you.

Landscape is really beautiful as soon as 10 minutes away from Creel.

Norberto talking to an Indian while we stopped at the mission San Ignacio.
During that time, two Raramuris were dancing inside the church, calling for the rain

The mission, with the Hongos at the back

The kids are delighted !

The horses can climb like real goats.

Crossing the path of 3 young Raramuris ladies.

A poor lonesome cow-boy :-)

Stones looking like mushrooms at the "valle de los hongos"

A small church in Creel next to the hostel

Back to the hostel, we are gathering our stuffs, and head to the train station, an easy walk of about 100 yards.
En route to Divisadero where the train automatically stops for about 15 minutes.

At the train stop, lots of small "tianguis" sell some delicious food

On the way to the panoramic view

Ladies and gentlemen, the view !

15 minutes were really shortLadies and gentlemen, the view !

for such a good food and such a view... But the trip must go on !
The view from the train keeps on being amazing.

Crossing a few villages, which only the train can access. No car roads up there.

And then, at last, some lake, some water. Here, the "Choix".

It is a long trip for kids, especially after a horse ride...

More and more water. Sounds good.

Here are our first giant cactuses.

Then comes the night, before arriving to El Fuerte

We arrived at the El Fuerte train station, where the taxi costs 40 pesos per person to go to the center of the city.
Here is Carmenita, the owner of the Hostel Casa Pascola

Here is the hostel Casa Pascola, a cute house with a huge garden.

El Fuerte is a beautiful colonial village from the 15th century
We love colonial architecture, so we love El Fuerte. But no one understands really El Fuerte without visiting the superb hotel built from the stables of the town castle, at the edge of the cliff. This hotel, called Rio Vista, is a great value for what it offers : a room with a panoramic view on the valley for about 600 pesos.
We highly recommend it. We especially love the numerous colonial antics decorating the walls.

Down the cliff, there is powerful river, which provides a very refreshing walk, and lots of shadow. Cute.

El Fuerte is famous for counting a huge quantity of humming-birds. They were actually everywhere

To be continued